This sector will be one of the most impressive one of Kalymnos-Telendos!!

With the shade untill 2 PM, then from 5PM to the night, it will be a great place to climb from potential 6a’s to 8a’s.

It’s perfect to go early with the boat (20mn of walk) or by foot (45mn) and to enjoy the different sector the all day long, playing with the shade: Princess Canyon and Chrystal Cave.

Aproach: 2mn after the “Wings for life” start, to folow the paint on the rock!

Helmet is necessary: It’s a new sector!

  Crescendo sector is the huge cave in the midle of this face. 

Chrystal Cave  is on the left of it.

Snow White sector:                                                                         

At 10mn from the village, this little crag have some nice routes in grades the 4b to the 7a. Some routes are very nice, you should have a try!

If the routes are short, it’s enought for a small afernoon after the sieste time. Well equipe for the beginers and easy aproach for kids!  Shade after 4 PM! 

Other crags:

The best is to go to the Gaetan Raymond blog: http://gaetanmontange.spaces.live.com/

It’s in french but it will give you an exellent idée about this sectors and routes. His pictures also show very well the beautiful Telendos island where you can rent superp rooms for the same prices than Kalymnos!

Have look!

In Kantouni:  New!

Beautiful grey rock, it will remind you the Odyssey sectore. You can go with a boat or by foot from the main path to go in Saint Photis  ( access under construction, will need ropes to rich the crags) From the grade 5 to the 7c? 15 to 20m hight. Protect from the south wind.

   Deep water solo in Kantouni…

Like you were climbing in Odyssey but without any ropes! Here in a 6c+…

The beautifuls crags of Kantouni.

At the very end of the island: New!

Just before Leros, you need a boat to go there. It’s a very  beautiful orange, red and white rock with some stalactites. Protect from the north wind. More than 20m hight. All levels of climb, and some possible grades 8.

From the grades 6a to the grades 8, everibody can enjoy it!

In Vathy:

! If you can go in Vathy any days, the sea have to be realy oily for the 2 other spots !

The well know sector is very good for dyscovering deep water solo and very nice to enjoy the place and the coffees in the harbour. It’s a good test before to try the other adventurous spots. From the grade 5 to the F8b. 

You can rent boats for 5 persons: 100e, or for 4: 75e for the half day. You don’t need a licence to drive it.

To rent a boat:     (+30) 69 34 1000 53 or (+30) 69 464 59 159

-Take some water glasses to check the deepness of the water,

-STAY FAR AWAY FROM THE ROCK WITH THE BOAT: Jump in the water and swim, if not you could damage the boat very easily!

-ALWAYS one person have to stay in the boat,

-Be sure that the lifes jacket are close and be ready to jump or to throw the lifebuoy to help your friend,

-Don’t forget solar cream and a good hat for the boat. A taw can be usefull,

-In case of problem, you can call the owner of the boat, he will know what to do.

Watch on you tube the video of  Neil Gresham attempting an unclimbed 8b deep water solo in Vathy!

This cave close to the sector Arhi is already equiped with 2 routes:  A  potential F8c(+) and a F7c(+) There is a potential for 4 others grades 8 in the cave.

On the left and on the right of this cave around 6 new grades F6 could be made.

Aproach: 15-20mn

Kalydna sector: 5 new grades 8 + 3 between 6c and 7c? Whaaarhhh Watch that wall!! My next project! The orange line will be a 60m route, full gaz, full colors…

 Verry soon, one of the most beautifull and impressive overhang in the world…I can’t wait to equipe it!!

You will find now 7 new routes in Yanis sector to try, from 6b to 8b. In the shade till 3 o clok wich is good for the sumer time as well!

     Here, “Attitude”, a beautifull 40m 7c+ I’ve opened.  After the first easy 20m meters on a beautifull red orange roc, the difficult part begin.    

“Attitude” F7c+ 40m

 Here, Simon  in Rakomelo, 8b.  Picture from Spyros Apostolopoulos

Don’t forget to stop for a drink in the village before or after climbing. You can find also very nices restaurant with traditional and fresh see food. 

 Above left: Simon answering a call in a F7a and on the right, Quentin Chastagnier in ”Queen Potha” F8a+/b . A beautifull route with a very interesting boulder problem. He did the FA  at the second go.  Photos: Nikos Smalios

   Left: Simon in the same F7a…      

Left: Simon is onsighting ”Amores Peros” F7c+ answering a phone call in the route! Photo: Nikos Smalios

The crags of Telendos:

Telendos is a very nice place where to spend quiet holidays far from any motors and noises…It’s a perfect place to stay with your familly. You can rent a room from 25 euros per night! There are routes  for all level and you can stay there for a good 2 weeks of climbing… It’s more quiet than Kalymnos and you will really feel the wilderness there. But let’s talk about the new sectors: 

 Sector Glaros:  New!!

 4 project wait for you + one of the best 7a+ and 7c(+) you can find in our island !!  This 45 degres roof is a realy incredible place. Routes from the grade F5b to the 9a project??…More info and pictures soon.  North Face, very good for the warms but windy days. (if it’s not windy, it will be damp)

Secor Chrystal Cave: New!!

Unbelievable!! This place must be in your world climbing priority! South face. More info on http://gaetanmontange.spaces.live.com

Sector Princess Canyon:  New!!

A wonderful place, very wild with an incredible rock. Routes from the F6a to the F7a. South face.

Sector Snow white: New!!

A familly sector, at 10mn walking from the village. Very good if you feel lazy and just have few ours…11 routes from the 4b to the 7b(Sharp) Some nices 6a/b with closed bolts.

More information in the new 2010 Kalymnos guide book.

 Hikes:

-You can visit the old village of Telendos (Ruins)

-To go to the top of the island (458m) there is an incredible view of Kalymnos and the Turkish coast… 

-To go to Princess Canyon: If we can climb in that place, it’s a realy incredible and wilde place that you won’t forget. For good walkers.

History:

Thousands years old ruins are all around the village: Early christian baths and cemetery, temples…

 To have and not to be F9a?

 “To have and not to be ” 9a(?) :

After this first 40m walking with a 6c+ and then a  7c(+), you will meet the real problem: 10 meters with some boulders around 8a(?)…One after one without any rest…Mono-fingers and very small edges on a beautifull red-brown-orange and white roc…

Alexander Megos (15 years old here)did in one day:                                                     

-”Fakes Friends” 8b+ 40m FA 1rst try

- ”Trous dans l’air” 8b+ FA , cruxs on sight (More difficult mouvs than Gaia 8b,  Nadir 8b or Rakomelo 8b…)

-”Dragonian Devil” 8b+ in Yanis sector. (Very easily by the way…)

+ an other day: “Keep Going” 8c 20m FA also in Kalydna sector.

He tryed this 9a route, but he didn’t have time to do many runs…

This route will be the most difficult of the sector and wait a FA,  

2 others grade 8 are waiting the FA in the same sector!! Let’s come to try!!                                                                                                                                     

New routes in Kalymnos : Kalydna  sector

 WHO CAN DO IT?

 Find all these routes, and many other very nices ones in different grades in “Kalymnian Dreams”

 This movie was realised  by Thomas Anquetil  a very strong 16 years old climber, also passionate for making videos.   This Blomu Production movie will show you some beautifull routes to try in Kalymnos. You will see what’s mean to climb in heaven! 

To order the movie: http://www.blomu-production.com/Blomu/Bienvenue.html

Read more about the movie in:  http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=1871

Others routes:  

Simon Montmory in “Trous dans l’air”  a F8b+ of  35m.

 Down on the left: Simon Montmory in “The Mole that cram full” a 50m F8b with a very interesting moov at the end (Hahaa!!) Some realy nices fly to do!! (La taupe qui bourre en francais)

On the right: “J’ai du temps donc j’ai de l’argent” F7b+ (I’ve time so I’ve money”)

The crux is at the top!!        

An other  route and  still a project: “Unique” : 8c+?  Who can do it ??!! A very beautifull route on an amazing rock!

Soon: The new route for the sumer time in Kalymnos-Telendos!!   

All these routes was opened by Simon Montmory, the Kalymnos climbing  guide. 

Climbing pictures from Yourgos Megos and personal collection.